Bergen- June 26

Early this morning we sailed into the harbor of the 2nd largest city in Norway, Bergen. The population is 245,000 people. The city area is quite large- 365 square kilometers- expanded about 20 years ago in order to maintain  the status of being the 2nd largest city in Norway. Trondheim was gaining in size and the mayor of Bergen didn't want to fall in rank. Lots of buildings are built on reclaimed land, and there was much building going on currently on reclaimed land from the harbor area.

Today was a typical day- rain and mist and a bit of a chill in the air.

Bergen was granted town status in 1070 and was, at the time, the largest city in the country and was the capital of an area that also included Iceland, Greenland, and parts of Scotland. 

In this town; fish, fishing, and selling dried fish is KING.  Dried cod fish made this town prosperous during the Hanseatic League trading company. Ships came twice a year and traded corn and other grains for the salted, dried cod. The fish was salted and dried by air. The process of learning to do this was a 6 year long apprenticeship. The young men who came from other parts of Europe to learn this trade were not allowed to associate with the local girls. In fact if one of these men got a local girl pregnant the penalty was to buy a barrel of beer for the other young men. Didn't seem too concerned about the girl.

In the mid 1800's ropery was the main industry. Ropes were made then from hemp and tar and the process was a terrific fire hazard. Because of the danger of fire, the roperies were located far outside the town. 

The Fish Market was lively, and there were even tanks selling live fish and crabs to assure you of getting really fresh fish. Our guide said even when the stalls are closed and the fish gone, the place smells like fish. But the locals  say "fish smells like money" so they don't care.

In 1349, rats from the many shipping vessels brought the plague to the area. In that year 80% of the people in Bergen and across Norway died from the plague. Because of so many ships in and out of these port, the plague was spread easily.  Currently 10% of the world's shipping is Norwegian. That is a large proportion of shipping compared to the population of the country.  

We saw the former movie theater building where during the German occupation in World War II, the Germans stored hay for their horses. After World War II, people in the area were starving and the people of Denmark sent food to save them. 

In addition to skis, Norwegians invented the paper clip and the milk carton- among other things. 

In Norway, a person is enrolled in the Lutheran Church at birth; therefore 83% of the people are Lutheran. BUT most do not attend church. You have to ask to be be removed from the rolls of the Lutheran Church.

The most famous Norwegian artist was Edward Monk, whose painting "The Scream" was stolen, returned damaged and sold again for 90 million Kroner (about $12 million.)

Ole Bull, the famous violinist, was from Bergen and he actually discovered Edvard Grieg. Ole Bull was said to be so handsome and popular that women fainted when they saw him and clever people bottled his bath water and sold it to the public. 

We visited Troldhaugen- Troll's Hill- the home of Edvard and Nina Grieg just outside of Bergen.  Grieg was born in Bergen and attended the conservatory here from ages 15-19. He went to Copenhagen and met again his second cousin, Nina. She was an excellent pianist and had a wonderful voice. They fell in love and decided to get married. Both families were opposed to the marriage so neither family came to the wedding. Grieg's father said as a musician, Edvard couldn't afford to have a wife. Nina's mother said Grieg was too short(4'11") and would never amount to anything. At first he had to teach  and conduct to make a living, but then in 1931 he received a grant and was able to compose. Apparently the parents were both wrong because Edvard Grieg was successful and he and Nina had a happy relationship. 

In Norway, education is compulsory for children ages 6-16. After 16 most youth pay and go to a different school until they are 19 and then they are off to college. 

Our guide said sometimes it is hard to figure out Norway- in places lakes are called fjords and fjords are called lakes. All I know is the scenery is lovely.

Norwegians say there is no such thing as "bad weather"  just "bad clothing." A story told is of some tourists who asked a 12 year old boy if it always rained in Bergen and he said, "I don't know I am only 12 years old." At least our ship had lots and big umbrellas by the doorway to the outside so we all paddled around having fun.