A Day In Dubrovnik

Last evenings formal night featured delicious and extensive menu options. We decided we cleaned up pretty good and looked not too bad! The Vista Dining Room had been changed to be more formal with linen chair covers creating a sea of white. We saw some tuxedos and fancy cocktail dresses but mostly suits and more scaled down fancy dress. I once again noticed how much Pat Kemp Stitt and Bill Kemp look alike.

Today we are in Dubrovnik, Croatia, which has a remarkable history. An independent, merchant republic for 700 years (abolished by Napoleon in 1806) it traded with Turkey and India in the East and also had trade representatives in Africa. It even had diplomatic relations with the English court in the middle ages.

We were transported to shore via ships tenders- a.k.a. life boats- is a long process of getting tender tickets, waiting until the number was called, and then waiting to board. At the last minute I booked a city tour with a local guide. Was cheaper and turned out to be great. Romeo Majek met us just beside where the tender landed and we were off and up a high hill via narrow road to get a breathtaking panoramic view of the walled city and the harbor. The road was indeed narrow and made more challenging because every once in a while a vehicle came the other direction. BUT our fearless Romeo drove with courage and skill while he told us lots of history of the area.

There were probably Dalmatian coastal inhabitants as long ago as the Neolithic age, but the term of “old town” refers to a 7^th Century AD settlement. At the time, it was an island, Lausa. At the foot of the mainland, Mt. Srd, was Dubrava, a separate village. Residents filled in the narrow channel between the island and the mainland in the 13^th century and built the reclaimed area into the landmark Placa- the main street. The old town was completed in the 13^th century and remains virtually unchanged to the present day. After WWI the town was officially named Dubrovnik. Tall ramparts surround it and there are only two entrances to the old town that lead to the Stradun, the city’s promenade. In 1991/2, the Serbs shelled the city causing a considerable damage, but thanks to local efforts and international aid, the old town has been restored to its former beauty.

We met a city guide, Nikos, outside the walls and he patiently and carefully walked us in and outside the walls while explaining about the combination of baroque, renaissance, and gothic architecture seen in the buildings. We visited a small museum to the soldiers of the conflict with the Serbs. That conflict lasted almost 9 months and did major damage to buildings and to lives. Both Nikos and Romeo fought for Croatia.

Napoleon built many fortresses around this city. Italy occupied the area during WWII.

We saw a window that had belonged to an orphanage. Unwanted babies were brought to this window that revolved around and the Nuns in the orphanage took the babies. However, each Mother broke a coin in half, left half with the baby and took half. She had up to 6 years to change her mind and come reclaim her child.

The houses on the main promenade were built in a baroque style. Each was four floors tall. Bottom floor was always a retail shop of some sort. Next came living quarters, next came sleeping quarters, and finally the top was toilet and the kitchen. Mainly the kitchen was there so the smoke and smell would go upward and not both others and in case of a fire in the kitchen the residents could be more easily evacuated. Ten years ago the population living in old town was 3.5 million Croatians. Now there are 2.5 million Croatians and 1000 Brits and Russian millionaires. Nikos said he thought that was a shame since most of these new residents are only here for a month a year for vacation.

One other interesting tidbit is neckties come from this area. In the 1600’s, Croatian soldiers wore scarves around their necks. The French adopted the idea and the tie became a new fashion item.

And now for reading and a nap!