Jerusalem- Nov 19

Last evening we were once again weary from touring so we decided to have pizzas in the room and reflect together on the day. Today is our last day in Jerusalem and then back to the ship.

The breakfast buffet is so extensive with lots of stuff we don’t normally eat- salads, fruits, breads, fish, meat, boiled eggs, pancakes with nuts and chocolate syrup and wonderful orange juice. Tropicana could come and learn something from this part of the world. Today the restaurant was extremely busy, loud and wild. Yesterday- not so much! We decided there must have been several tour buses leaving and indeed there were.

Yonatan picked us up a little after 9:00 and we headed for the synagogue at the Hadassah Hospital to see the wonderful windows by Marc Chagall. Hadassah, The Women’s Zionist Organization of America was established in 1912 and is the largest women’s, the largest volunteer and the largest Jewish organization in the US. The hospital is one of the best, according to Yonatan. It was a huge hospital with many people coming and going.

In Israel Hadassah initiates and supports leading institutions in the field of health, education and youth, and is involved in land reclamation according to the country’s changing needs. In the US, Hadassah seeks to improve the quality of American and Jewish life through educational programs and programs for Zionist youth. The organization promotes health awareness and advocacy and provides its members with opportunities for personal growth and enrichment.

We got to the synagogue and went inside. A recorded commentary began as we focused on each of the 12 windows learning a great deal about their symbolism. Tradition associates each of the tribes with a symbol, a precious stone and a social role. All of these are represented in each window.

The Russian-Jewish artist Marc Chagall created the 12 windows in 1960-61. About his creation he said, “This is my modest gift to the Jewish people who have always dreamt of biblical love, friendship and of peace among all peoples. This is my gift to that people which lived here thousands of years ago among the other Semitic people”

 As he worked on the windows Chagall is quoted saying, “All the time I was working I felt my mother and father looking over my shoulder and behind them Jews, millions of other vanished Jews- of yesterday and a thousand years ago.”

Chagall’s assistant developed a process that allowed Chagall to use as many as three colors on each pane rather than the traditional technique of separating each colored pane by a lead strip. To be sure each window received proper light, Chagall came to Jerusalem a number of times to check the positioning of each of the windows. In the window of Issachar is a piece of shrapnel from the 1967 war. Chagall said after several windows were destroyed, “You take care of the war and I’ll take care of the windows.”

Chagall drew his inspiration from the Bible and especially Jacob’s blessings upon his twelve sons and Moses’ blessing of the twelve tribes. Each of the windows represents one of the twelve tribes of Israel- the 12 sons of Jacob the son of Isaac, the son of Abraham.

The Blessings of Jacob “These are the twelve tribes of Israel and this is what Jacob their father said to them and how he blessed them.” Genesis 49

“Reuben, you are my first born, my strength and first fruit of my vigor, first in rank and first in power. Instable as water, you shall excel no longer.”

“Simeon and Levi are a pair. Their weapons are tools of lawlessness…Cursed by their rage, for it is fierce, and their fury, for it is cruel.”

Levi, they kept your word and safeguarded your covenant. They shall teach your law to Jacob and your Torah to Israel.”

Judah your brothers shall praise you, your hand shall be on your enemies’ necks..Judah is a young lion…The scepter will not depart from Judah.”

“Zebulon shall dwell by the seashore. He shall be a haven for ships.”

Issachar is a strong-boned donkey, stretching out between the saddlebags..He sees the resting place is good and the land is pleasant, so he will bend his back to the task.”

“Dan shall fight for his people…Let Dan be a snake by the road, a viper on the path, biting the horse’s heel.”

Gad shall be raided by raiders, but he will raid at their heels.”

From Asher will come the richest foods; he shall provide the king’s delights…Blessed among the sons, he shall accepted by his brothers and anointed with oil.”

Naphtali is a deer running free; he delivers words of beauty.”

Joseph is a fruitful son, [like] a fruitful vine by the fountain with branches running over the wall… The Almighty will bless you. [Yours will be] the blessings of heaven above, the blessings of the water lying beneath..”

Benjamin is a vicious wolf, in the morning he consumes his fowl…Beloved of the Lord, he rests securely beside him.”

We had hoped to go to the Israel Museum and see some of the Dead Sea Scrolls in the Shrine of the Book but our ship was leaving 2 hours earlier than we had thought so something had to be forgotten. We were able to see the architecture of the museum with the distinctive roof of the Shrine of the Book looking like the covering of a scroll.  

Yonatan said the population of Israel is about 8 million with 75% being Jewish. Of that 75% Jewish one-third are Orthodox and one-third are Jewish seculars. There are about 150,000 Christians who live in Israel. All active Rabbis are paid a salary by the government.

We made one last stop at the Caesarea National Park. At the height of his power in 29-22 BCE Herod the Great built a splendid city over the site of a Phoenician port and dedicated it to Augustus Caesar. The splendor of this city is attested to by the lavish description by Flavius Josephus.

Our time with Yonatan as a guide was fun and informative. He was very attentive to our needs and limitations. He was sometimes too outspoken for us on political issues but we overall thought it was better than having him be “wishy-washy.” We sure knew where he stands on political issues here and aboard.

He spoke often of the Jewish National Foundation (JNF) whose mission has been to help the area “bloom” with trees and plantings. Big groves of oaks were moved when roads were being constructed. He said you even need the permission of the JNF to cut a tree in your own yard.

We arrived back to the port and after a security check we drove right up to the door of the ship. The Regent people could not have been nicer pr more helpful. Someone came down and helped Jim pull our suitcase up the steep ramp and as we walked a round the atrium, the concierge welcomed us back aboard and asked if we needed some assistance with the luggage. Good to be back to “our home away from home” and the gracious and attentive service of Regent Cruises that we love.