Wednesday, January 23, 2008

January 23- Tauranga, New Zealand





We had such a wonderful time today exploring Maori culture and heritage. 

We boarded the bus and were immediately welcomed by Stev our guide. He is a journalist and speech writer but works as a guide part-time just to share his knowledge and excitement about this culture. He is a Maori and leading figure in a tribe. 
Our first stop was at a performance hall where members of his family did some dances and singing for us. 
The men demonstrated the dance- The Haka- demonstrating fighting between warriors from two villages. The young men made great faces and sounds. They had tattooed arms and looked very fierce.

He first told us about Tauranga with its population of 109,100- as of the 2006 census. During the Christmas holiday the population triples because this place is such a wonderful resort- great beaches, fishing and food. 
The Kiwi fruit came from China and its first name was Chinese Gooseberry. It's little round shape and rough skin is sort of like the Kiwi bird to me. 

The first settlers of Tauranga arrived from Takitimu and Mataatua waka in the 12th century. Traders in flax were active in the Bay of Plenty during the 1830's. The first permanent trader was James Farrow, who traveled to Tauranga in 1829, obtaining flax fiber for Australian merchants in exchange for muskets and gunpowder.

We traveled on from the hall to the Paranuia (Big) house of his tribe. We learned about the traditional welcoming ceremony. The visitors approach the house and wait until a warrior comes out and with great fierceness  to ask if we come in peace. He placed a peace offering on the ground.  By accepting this offering, our leader assured the warrior that we came in peace. The voice of a woman  sang to welcome and to invite us onto the sacred ground. The women walked in first with the men behind to protect us. We took off our shoes. We entered through a gateway that was carved with the names of the three tribes that came together and arrived in canoes. One side carving was of a man from one tribe and the other side was of a woman from another tribe.  We were welcomed into the family  of Paparoa  Maraewith symbolism all around of the human body.

Entering the building the women went first and sat at the back- then the men came in and occupied the front rows. The welcoming speeches began. Maori's are very spiritual people and in the speech he acknowledged God and "Those who have passed on."

The roof had one single center beam- like a spine- and the side pieces were rib like. At the end of the room was a wall of photos of ancestors who have died. 

When we were all seated. The elder of the family gave a speech welcoming us to their family in the name of the creator and their ancestors. Because the Maori originally had no written language it was important for the tribal leaders be great storytellers to keep the family legends alive. As it is the Maori language only has 15 letters- and lots of double vowels are used to create different sounds.  Would be a hard one to learn!

A man spoke for us assuring the leaders that we came in peace. We then sang a song- a Waiata-  in Maori that Stev taught us as we traveled. The name was E toru nga mea and they translate to say..."There are three important things that are most important...It is stated in the Bible- Faith- Hope- The most important is love. 

After this we participated in the traditional greeting called the Hongi- the touching of noses and foreheads was a very spiritual experience. When you touch noses with your host your breathe mingles together and you become one. When you touch foreheads you exchange and share knowledge.

They described the process when someone dies...no matter where they have moved away from the tribe the body is returned to the village and lies in state for 3 days. All the relatives gather in the big house, weeping and wailing. They wear black but have a spring of greenery in their hair. After three days they believe the spirit has now left the body and returned to the island where they came from and the body is taken to the family cemetery and buried. Then they all return to the house and the feasting and celebration begins.

A year after someone dies they gather again and remember the life. A photo is hung on the wall. It looks like a pictorial family tree. 

As we approached our ship Stev gave us a blessing "May the good Lord touch your heart and take you home to your loved ones."  Was a perfect ending!

Our last evening was spent in Horizons Lounge with our friends Inge, Lawrence, Chris and Guy. We watched the beautiful sail- away from Tauranga. There was a triathalon going on on the beach. We watched the swimmers get in the water, swim, get out and mount bikes for the next part of their journey. We saw a lovely mountain with a walking path. Turns out our buddies spent the day walking that mountain as their spiritual experience. We all loved this little resort- saw some great condos to rent.

We ate dinner together in the Grand Dining Room and said our good-byes. 


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