Monday, July 27, 2009

July 26- Palermo






As we went out on the balcony this morning there were loud booms and puffs of smoke. Then there were several bursts of fireworks. Never saw daylight fireworks. We still didn’t learn what was the occasion. When Phoenicians reached Palermo in the 8th century BC they named their new port Ziz- “flower.” Romans later captured and held the city against Greek influence that pervaded the rest of Sicily. They renamed the port Panormus- “central harbor.” It prospered under Arab rule in the 9th century, but truly blossomed after Normans invaded a few centuries later.

As we rode around the city we saw lots of buildings left from the Norman period of time. Jim and I visited the famous Cattedrale. Lucy, Jerry and Pat went to a wonderful cathedral with gold mosaics a bit outside of the city. Our visit was on Sunday so most of the shops were closed but when we visited Mondello Beach it looked to us like everyone in town was at the beach and NOT in any one of the beautiful churches we saw.

We learned the story of the patron saint of Palermo, St. Rosalia. As a young woman she dedicated her life to God and went to live on the mountain top. When she died her body could never be found. As the Black Plague began to threaten Europe, Rosalia appeared to a man in the village and told him if he would come to the mountain she would reveal where her body was.

AND if he found her body and brought it back to the village she would protect the people from the plague. He did what she asked and the town was spared. Her remains are in the cathedral in a silver urn which us carried through the city at the beginning of the celebration of her special days. There was a big parade on July 15 in her honor. The streets were still decorated with arches and lights.


We were reminded of how many time in how many villages and towns in Europe we have heard stories about promises and bargains with God to keep the plague away. I guess the Passion Play in Oberrammergau, Germany is the most famous.

During the 12th century, Palermo alone generated about four times the commercial tax revenue of the entire kingdom of England. We were amazed at that fact. Downtown we saw a beautiful theater and the 3rd largest Opera house in Europe. Both were well maintained and according to our guide used very often for performances. The center square of the city- Quattro Canti- was lovely. It was built in 1611 and separated the four main districts which each had their own dialect. Residents even viewed each other with suspicion if not open hostility.

The Palazzo dei Normanni was

built earlier than the Norman time but was enlarged and refitted by the Normans in the 12th century.

All in all we found Palermo to be an interesting place that reflects the many stages of the life it has lived. Our group ate dinner at the special Italian restaurant again.

The evening closed for some of us as we watched the moon brighten the sky as the evening sunset color faded.

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