Must be in Muscat!

Muscat Harbor

Muscat is the capital and the largest city of Oman. Known since the early 1^st century CE it was an important trading post between east and west. Several indigenous tribes as well as foreign powers such as the Persians and the Portuguese Empire at various points in its history ruled Muscat.  A regional military power in the 18^th century, Muscat’s influence extended as far as East Africa and Zanzibar.

Since the ascension of Qaboos bin Said as Sultan of Oman in 1970 Muscat has experienced rapid infrastructural development that has led to the growth of a vibrant economy and a multi-ethnic society.

Our guide, Josef told us there are 21 countries in the Middle East and he believes Oman is the most peaceful and prosperous. There are 1.9 million Omanis living in the country and there are 1.4 foreigners from India, Bangladesh, and Pakistan living here. The foreign population came for jobs because this country offers so many different kinds of employment.

Mosque Chandelier

The official currency of Oman is the Omani Rial and $1.00 is worth .38 rials. It takes 1000 baisas to make a rial.  They did appear to be happy to take US dollars and also Euros. Muscat, like Salalah, is beginning to receive many tourists from Europe.

The Omani flag has three stripes- green for agriculture, red for blood of old war especially from Omanis and the Portuguese, and white for peace. Although the dagger is center on the logo on the flag, this is a peaceful country.

Josef and his competed turban

There were many decorations still up for the National Day holiday that is actually November 18 but was celebrated this Thursday and Friday, Nov. 28-29. We saw red, green and white lights on lamp poles, lights in the trees and a green leafy-lighted mosaic thing on the gates to the palace. Wish we were going to be here to see all the decorations this evening.

The sultan won the Nobel Peace Prize in 2008 for his special efforts in all of the Middle East. Our first stop was the Sultan Qaboos Mosque that is the 3rd largest Mosque in the world and most of the whole complex was

Inside the Mosque

open to non-Muslim visitors. There was a special mosque for women that allowed about 700 women to worship together. The main section of the mosque accommodates 20,000 worshipers.

The carpet was created by 600 women and was the world’s largest Persian single carpet until the Sultan of Dubai built a bigger mosque and thus a bigger carpet was needed and this one is now the second largest Persian carpet. The huge chandelier is made of Swarovski crystals and weighs 2 tons. The walls are covered in marble paneling and beautiful mosaics. The mosque was built between 1995- 2001 and cost the country nothing because the sultan used only his own money for that.

Jim at the Palace

Construction Everywhere

Josef explained the Five Pillars of Islam and we were really intrigues with one of them. # 1 A belief in Mohammed as the prophet of Allah  # 2 Praying 5 times a day #3 Observing Ramadan  #4 Charity- which means if you have money that has not been used for a year you are required to give away 2.5% of that money for charity and #5 Making a pilgrimage to Mecca once in your lifetime. With our interest in stewardship, we really liked the charity idea.

The governmental ministries were all in a long, long row in new looking and crisp, bright buildings. All the buildings in the town were white to be pleasing to the eye and also to reflect the hot rays of the sun away.

The educational system is free in the government schools that begin at 7 years and continue for 12 years. University is free but one can only enroll if their grades are high enough. Josef graduated from the University of Oman two years ago. He is employed by the Ministry of the Interior and also works as a tour guide to practice his English. He majored in hospitality management and hopes to enter that field. He is not married.

Our driver, Wakim, was extremely nice, is married, has no children, and his wife stays at home with his mother. Women do or can drive in Oman and no not have to keep their faces covered unless they want to. Wakim and Josef both showed us how they created their headgear from a triangle of fabric. Wakim’s is called a Shumaj and Josef’s a Turban.

Oman is beginning to diversify into tourism and also small manufacturing so they are not so dependent on oil production. Josef told us you could tell the purpose of a building by its size. Residential buildings are never taller than 3 stories and commercial buildings are never talker than 9 stories. He said this was keeping the environment and “visual pollution” in mind. Like Salalah there was construction everywhere you looked.

Courtyard at the Bait Al Zubair Museum

We also visited a museum, Bait Al Zubair Museum and the two forts of Al Jaiali and Al Mirani. These two forts were built as prisons in 1580 and provided great photo st

Al Jalali Fort

ops. We drove through the grounds of the Qasr Al Alum Royal Palace where the sultan lives when he is in town. The royal yacht was also in the harbor nearby our ship. We drove on the new beach road, The Corniche. We at last saw people doing something for fun- jet skis in the water, people walking the beach and people wading in the water- all clothed in long garments. We were at Quran Beach. It was low tide and they claim you could walk around the entire area at this point in the day….but we didn’t try.

Wakim ties his Sahmaj

Our guide was good, our driver was save and our tour just the right amount of time.


Came back aboard and went to the Pool Grill was a lunch as we watched the huge commercial ships being unloaded.

Another Day At Sea

Our last day at sea and we are rapidly heading toward Muscat, Oman to dock tomorrow morning. The sea is a bit rolling with some white caps. 

The sunset last evening as we sailed from Salalah was spectacular. 

Was a good Thanksgiving Day here so far away from home….or rather in our favorite “home away from home on the seas.”

We had hoped to have a computer chat with Bill and his family since we had almost effortlessly done that with Kathryn and her family and several times with Bill and Lucy Kemp, but the internet powers that be and the technology were not to work at all. We finally had a good phone conversation first with Jack and then with Bill- with voices chiming in from the background.

We met our friends Kathy and Bos Irvine for Thanksgiving dinner. We had turkey with all the trimmings. The turkey was moist and delicious but except for the turkey the rest of the food offerings were different than our traditional dishes….but all was good. Still it is such a treat to eat a feast every night aboard without cooking or cleaning…and with amazing variety of food from which to choose. Love it!!!!

After much discussion and debate, we have decided to use a luggage shipping service, Luggage Free. This service is far from free but does mean we won’t have to deal with luggage once we identify it off the ship. Our friends who have used it several times say the luggage just appears at your door.  That will certainly make our last day of touring in Dubai, our arrival at the Dubai airport, navigating customs at the Atlanta airport and our arrival in Tampa be much easier. Now if we just don’t have to take out a second mortgage on the house to pay the bill. The cost is determined by where you are shipping from and since everything in the United Arab Emirates seems to be expensive, the cost of shipping from Dubai is the highest of all.  If it doesn’t do all those things, I am sure I’ll never hear the end of it- but it seems worth the risk.

Breakfast was just delivered by Ketut. He is such a kind and nice person. He had told us a week or so ago he only had 8 suites this cruise that he was caring for because suites 859 and 860 were unoccupied. Bos had seen someone in 860 and thought they were some of the entertainment staff and yesterday I saw a big guy leaving 859….so I asked. Ketut smiled and said actually both suites were occupied with the extra security men who have been aboard since the last Greek port. They will be aboard until Pakistan. He said that is why the “Privacy” sign is always hanging out. Someone of the group is always up walking the decks and someone is always sleeping. They have certainly been unobtrusive in their security duties- unlike the guys who were so obvious on the Oceania cruise in 2005 in this area.

Jim said the water cannons were manned this morning so I guess we are still in waters that could produce a surprise or two.

We continue to be impressed with the way this cruise line pays attention to details in every area. We'll miss this easy, lazy life when we get home. BUT there us always something good about home. The chocolate placed on our pillows each night are in small paper envelops with travel quotes printed on them. One that seems appropriate as this cruise is drawing to an end…"No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel…until he comes home and rests his head on his old familiar pillow." Twas said by Lin Yutang and I know it is also true for women- something good about home when the journey is over. 

From Salalah Oman a Happy Thanksgiving

Happy Thanksgiving! 

Was great to go to the atrium to go ashore and see the area all decorated for our American holiday. Turkey and all the trimmings even at sea tonight! We’ve much for which to give thanks!

We sailed into Salalah, Oman this morning about

9:30AM. The captain had to successfully navigate a 180-degree turn to get us with the starboard side of the ship at the dock. Behind us is a small cruise ship also named Voyager. Buses and cars were on the dock-awaiting folks from our ship.

Salalah is the capital and seat of the government, or wali, of the southern Omani province of Dhofar. It is the second largest city in the Sultanate of Oman. The coastal city of Salalah is a traditional stronghold and birthplace of the Sultan, Qaboos bin Said.

Until Sultan Qaboos exiled the previous Sultan, his Father, in 1970 Oman was an underdeveloped

country, and almost completely closed to visitors. Qaboos went to school in England and then as a 30 year old man assembled advisors for construction, infrastructure, education and more to help the country move ahead. Since 1970 education, public works and tourism have taken off throughout the country. Before 1970 there were only 3 schools in the country, roads were not paved, and most people lived in tents.

Mohammed, our guide, was proud of his country’s rapid progress and their heritage. Excellent schools for both boys and girls, hospitals, good governance and on-going infrastructure improvements are all important characteristics of this once introverted and closed nation.

Oman has a population of 2.5 million people and in this region there are 249,000 people living. 

Grand Mosque- Salalah

In the mid-2009 the Grand Mosque was opened in Salalah- 39 years after Qaboos ascended to the throne.

The Mosque was beautiful inside and out. We started our tour right at 10:00 as the ship was cleared so we could get to the Mosque before it closed at 11:00AM.

We had to be certain our arms were covered to the wrists and our legs covered to the ankles. Naturally we all took off our shoes. Kathy and I had to don headscarves to cover our hair. Worship at the

mosque is only for men. There is a special day every once in a while for women and girls to come.

We first saw the Ablution area for men to symbolically clean their hands, mouths, and heart. There was a steady stream of people going in but not many went into the mosque itself. Mohammed said these were also treated often like public toilets.

The floor of the mosque was inlaid marble with lovely patterns, inside there was a huge crystal chandelier, a pulpit with a sign above that gave the current time and date plus the times for prayer 5 times during that day. The floor was covered in a huge yellow rug with borders almost creating one big prayer rug with smaller sections for individuals to kneel.

After the visit to the mosque we went to the old city Haffe to the gold souq and the clothing souq but mostly to look. Bought some hats and some Frankincense.

Never saw so much construction- roads and buildings. 

Jim and Bos go shopping in the Souq

The area has really expanded since we were here in 2005. There is a new airport almost completed. Highways with beautiful traffic circles were filled with nice looking, new cars.

The beach area was beautiful and the government has purchased the land on the shoreline. The older dwellings and business are to be torn down and a real tourist center will be built around the shimmering, blue, and clear water.

We stopped  to see a historical something about the camel of a prophet but it was closed because today is also a holiday for Omanis. It is some sort of celebration of Qaboos coming to power we think. The real day was last week but the date was shifted to connect with a long week-end. Pretty cool!!!

We did see men at a construction site praying. Together they stood, faced east, knelt and prayed.

We went out into the country to a camel park where people bring their camels during the rainy season. Saw lots and lots of camels and even a couple of black camels which none of us had seen before.
We drove to the top of a mountain and looked down over the area. It was lovely.

Our last stop before returning to the ship was at THE Frankincense Tree. Poor little thing was just as we remembered it standing all alone and having been used frequently to demonstrate how frankincense is harvested. Mohammed did a great job of telling us all about the process.

We spent 4 hours in the mini van with Mohammed and a driver whose name I could never quite catch but who was also pleasant. He seemed to be surprised when we were ready to return to the ship at about 2:00. We were weary and a half-day tour is all we expected, paid for and wanted.

 Sultan Qaboos was married, then divorced and is not married now. He has no heirs. He is 73 years old. Mohammed told us Qaboos has decided who from his family should be king after he dies. He has written that name  in a letter and sealed it in an envelop. After his death the family can spend three days discussing who they think should be king. After three days they open his letter and that person he named is the king. I couldn’t help but wonder if that method will help the family or create much friction.

We sail at about 6:00PM. At the moment as I type it is 8:05 AM on the east coast…..so happy thanksgiving again!

It Worked!!!!

Yesterday was the day to hopefully NOT see pirates….and we were very successful in that venture. Several things happened during the course of the day for protection and preparation in case of a sighting.

The night before last the crew and staff all watched the movie “Captain Phillips.” Can’t for the life of me figure what that was supposed to accomplish for the dedicated staff and crew who are so well trained anyway. We decided maybe it was to teach them to follow orders no matter what. Still seemed a strange source of entertainment for the audience and the location….sort of like watching the Titanic while you are on a cruise crossing the Atlantic. Since we haven’t seen the movie, we are hoping it will come up on the Movies on Demand option on our TV.

Water Cannon

Jim went wandering the ship in the afternoon and discovered there were water cannons on either side of the first open deck- Deck 5- in the bow of the ship. They looked more like giant whitish-gray fat snakes as they peered over the deck railing waiting for a target.

Sonic Blaster on the stern

Continuing his walk-about he found a sonic blaster thing on the stern of the ship on Deck 5 outside of the Horizon Lounge. It uses high levels of sound to make it uncomfortable for the pirates to come aboard.  Personnel were standing by all of these pieces of equipment and the deck was closed with a sign saying “Deck Closed –High Wind.”

In the late afternoon when Ketut delivered our usual canapés of veggies and dip, we discussed the pirates. Ketut is from Bali and is a Hindu. He grinned and said we have one person on board who's job is to protect this ship and all of us. We wondered what his answer would be and he replied with great confidence, "God."

Last evening the Barnetts and the Irvines went back to the Italian restaurant on Deck 11, and we noticed as people sat by the little tables for two by the windows a dark shade was pulled down over the windows. They said it was to obscure the view. Also all the exterior lights on the ship were extinguished. Maybe it was because the Captain and his wife were also dining in Sette Mari last evening.  Since the Captain could go out for dinner, we knew we had nothing to worry about.  

We have safely cleared the most prominent area for pirates and are happily and quickly sailing toward Salalah with about 500 nautical miles to go. So I guess our mission was successful….and we didn’t have to hear the voice calling Yellow (close the curtains and turn off the lights), Orange (move to the middle of the ship) or Red (hit the ground) alert.

Today is bright, sunny with calm but rolling seas. So we’ll continue to do what we do best- be lazy and watch the world go by.