July 27- Naples

So here we are, the last day of our cruise, in Naples where although the exact date is not known, pizza was likely invented. The first recognizable pizza appeared in the early 18^th century. Pat and Jerry tasted some authentic Neapolitan pizza as they traveled in Naples.

The relaxed pace of Naples life contrast with its size and industry. They claim the pier is the world’s most lavish. Julius Caesar, Cleopatra and Marc Antony were reportedly big fans of visiting this area for the beautiful blue water. There have always been rumors of treasures in the sandy Bay of Naples seabed because of the riches that belong to wealthy travelers that were hauled from ship to shore.

The port was busy in the morning. A cruise ship sailed in, a ferry sailed out, and at least three ferries sailed in on our portside of the Noordam. The ferries were various sizes but all carried cars and trucks.

The central Duomo was built in the 13^th century and is dedicated to the patron saint San Gennaro who was martyred for his Christian beliefs in 350AD.

The city’s picturesque central district is known as Spanccanapoli-“the Naples divide”- and is home to many churches.

In 79AD, Vesuvius shook the ground and in an instant the Roman village of Pompeii was lost beneath a blanket of boiling lava and ash. Violent earthquakes had signaled the impending event for more than a decade but most residents refused to leave their elegant home and the advanced life style. The city had running water a sewer system and beautiful mosaics everywhere- as can be learned from a visit there.

You can understand why Romans have always admired this region- the district name is a shortened form of the affectionate Roman designation which means “land of happiness.” For us these 20 days and nights on the Noordam have been wonderful. What more could you ask that amazing sights, delicious food, good friends, great conversation, and excellent hospitality and care. So for now we’ll all say ciao!

July 26- Palermo

As we went out on the balcony this morning there were loud booms and puffs of smoke. Then there were several bursts of fireworks. Never saw daylight fireworks. We still didn’t learn what was the occasion. When Phoenicians reached Palermo in the 8^th century BC they named their new port Ziz- “flower.” Romans later captured and held the city against Greek influence that pervaded the rest of Sicily. They renamed the port Panormus- “central harbor.” It prospered under Arab rule in the 9^th century, but truly blossomed after Normans invaded a few centuries later.

As we rode around the city we saw lots of buildings left from the Norman period of time. Jim and I visited the famous Cattedrale. Lucy, Jerry and Pat went to a wonderful cathedral with gold mosaics a bit outside of the city. Our visit was on Sunday so most of the shops were closed but when we visited Mondello Beach it looked to us like everyone in town was at the beach and NOT in any one of the beautiful churches we saw.

We learned the story of the patron saint of Palermo, St. Rosalia. As a young woman she dedicated her life to God and went to live on the mountain top. When she died her body could never be found. As the Black Plague began to threaten Europe, Rosalia appeared to a man in the village and told him if he would come to the mountain she would reveal where her body was.

AND if he found her body and brought it back to the village she would protect the people from the plague. He did what she asked and the town was spared. Her remains are in the cathedral in a silver urn which us carried through the city at the beginning of the celebration of her special days. There was a big parade on July 15 in her honor. The streets were still decorated with arches and lights.

We were reminded of how many time in how many villages and towns in Europe we have heard stories about promises and bargains with God to keep the plague away. I guess the Passion Play in Oberrammergau, Germany is the most famous.

During the 12^th century, Palermo alone generated about four times the commercial tax revenue of the entire kingdom of England. We were amazed at that fact. Downtown we saw a beautiful theater and the 3^rd largest Opera house in Europe. Both were well maintained and according to our guide used very often for performances. The center square of the city- Quattro Canti- was lovely. It was built in 1611 and separated the four main districts which each had their own dialect. Residents even viewed each other with suspicion if not open hostility.

The Palazzo dei Normanni was

built earlier than the Norman time but was enlarged and refitted by the Normans in the 12^th century.

All in all we found Palermo to be an interesting place that reflects the many stages of the life it has lived. Our group ate dinner at the special Italian restaurant again.

The evening closed for some of us as we watched the moon brighten the sky as the evening sunset color faded.

July 25- Tunisia

This morning as we sailed into Tunis- actually the port of La Goulette- camels and traditional music greeted us. The temperature was nearly 100 degrees and the sun was beating down. We boarded our bus with wonderful air conditioning and a terrific guide named Ben.

Tunisia has a long and interesting history. Africa was named for the Berber Afri tribe who lived near Carthage. In early Tunisian history, the expanding Sahara Desert separated Berber tribes from ancestral Egyptians by 3000BC and cultural distinctions began to emerge. Egyptian civilization flourished on the fertile banks of the Nile while Berbers were forced to live nomadic lives following scarce and shifting water and food supplies. During the era the Carthage-based Punic Empire grew powerful for a time, but after Hannibal was expelled, the civilization declined. Roman soldiers destroyed Carthage in 146BC, but Roman rule was undermined when Roman Emperors tried to suppress Christianity. Despite their best efforts, the faith spread across the empire- including Northern Africa- but Christians were supplanted by 7^th Century Islamic armies who brought Muhammad’s messages to the region.

Ottomans also invaded along the southern Mediterranean coast. Their 16^th century incursions brought stability and prosperity. The thriving Tunisian economy was also fueled by piracy. Bandit bases once lined the Tunisian coast but in 1815, the US Navy attacked Tunis and effectively halted the practice.

Today was actually the national holiday to celebrate 52 years of their being a republic. The year before the French government turned to country to the people of Tunisia. Tunisia is a Muslim country but at the time they became a republic they declared polygamy was illegal. Women serve in government, the military and on the police force. Education is compulsory for boys and girls from age 5 to 16. The literacy rate is very high in Tunisia. The population is about 92% Muslim, 4& Tunisian Jews and 3% Christian. The overview of the town has a prominent church steeple and the minaret of a mosque.

Our guide kept saying we were so lucky that this is a holiday because the traffic was so much better. We saw the flower market, the fruit and vegetable markets, and the main market. We traveled in the old town- the Medina- with ancient walls and doorways. The Medina is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We also visited the charming town of Sidi Bou Said. It was lovely with white house and blue trim. We stopped and did a little shopping and also cooled down with some water and a coke.

We saw big fields that have been cleared to begin an excavation project of Carthage. This is also a UNESCO site. We could see the remains of a Roman Aquaduct that has already begun to be uncovered.

We visited a beautiful old cathedral- Saint Louis- which isn’t used for worship anymore. It is a museum and was naturally surrounded by vendors very similar to the aggressive vendors in Egypt.

The most surprising thing to us was a visit to the North African America Cemetery from WWII. There are 2,833 headstones in this hallowed place. There are 240 unknown soldiers buried. The American Embassy is responsibility for the upkeep and the place was perfectly maintained.

We enjoyed our day in Tunis even with the hot sun and the steep temperatures. Our other companions took a longer trip so it will be interesting to hear how they fared.

Last Day At Sea- July 24

Today is our last day at sea- where did the time go? We begin this trip of 20 days and thought there is lots of time for lots of things and suddenly……

Last evening Jim and I were invited to a cocktail party with the Captain and the Hotel Manager. On a ship the Captain is the “Master” of the ship and responsible for all the sailing functions and duties on the ship. The Hotel Manager is in charge of the servers, cabin stewards and all the other staff that make this huge floating hotel provide an elegant way to travel.

The party was small-about 20 people. We chatted with the Cruise Director, the Captain the Hotel Manager, and the HR person for the crew. All such nice folks. The captain lives in Charlotte, NC- which we had read. We bet he lived at Lake Norman but he doesn’t. He lives near South Park Shopping Center. His wife grew up in the same neighborhood Jim and I did- in Dilworth on Myrtle Avenue. The world is small. I am sure we got invited because of the number of days we have cruised with Holland America.

Our group had waited on us for dinner. We shared a wonderful meal with Kemps, Stitts and a family of 4 from outside of Amsterdam. The Dad is a house remodeler, the Mom works for Social Security, the older daughter s a PE teacher and the younger daughter wants to come to the States and try her hand at journalism. This was their first cruise- after most vacations of backpacking. I think for the family the verdict was still out about cruises vs. backpacking. We just about closed up the Vista Dining Room as we chatted.

This morning there was a 5K walk (On Deck for the Cure) to raise money for Susan G. Komen for the Cure. Bill and Pat walked to raise money. I was on the balcony reading while Jim slept and the music and conversation from the Promenade deck was lively. Since Holland America does this on every cruise I am certain a great deal of money has been raised. Bill said he thought about 75 people walked.

Lunch today was a special lunch for Mariners- people who have cruised before with Holland America. We went wearing the copper medallions we had been given when we completed 100 days with Holland America.

We sat at a table with the Hotel Manager –Marco- who lives near Brugg. His family- his wife and their 2-year-old son- live with him on the ship. We have seen the cute little, blond headed boy around the decks. What a great experience! Anyway, we had a delightful lunch and conversation. I learned from Marco that in addition to the Breast Cancer Walk, Holland America has a program called “From Ship to Shelter” where unused bottles of lotion, shampoo and shower gel are gathered in their homeports of Seattle, San Diego and Fort Lauderdale and distributed to homeless shelters.

Tonight we are going to the Pinnacle Grill to celebrate Bill and Lucy’s anniversary. Meanwhile, the nap and time a reading sounds terrific to me! We do love Sea Days!

Mallorca- July 23

Palma de Mallorca, Spain was an interesting place. We awoke to a beautiful sunrise. Jim and I had breakfast in our cabin and we prepared for a shore excursion. Our guide Juan told us all about the yacht clubs and we saw once again the most amazing mass of boats. He laughed and told us the marinas on the right- filled with huge boats- belonged to the tourists and the oats on the left- much more modest bats- belonged to the locals.

All 6 of us went on this trip to visit the rugged Costa Nord (Mallorca's North

Coast) to the town of Valldemosa. The North Coast is a 40-mile long mass of limestone rock that has formed a wall against winds and invasions. The charming town of Valldemosa must be a big tourist destination for tourists for the big buses came and went with a very smooth system. The trip included a visit to the Costa Nord Foundation, established to promote the culture and landscape of the Tramuntana mountain range. The group saw a documentary made by Michael Douglas, who has made his home here for 20 years. The hillsides were covered in olive, fig, almond, carob, and orange trees.

We then drove up a very narrow and steep road to get to San Bosch for our wine tasting. We had a close encounter with a three-wheeled delivery truck followed closely by a bicycle….and then we met another bus- very exciting.

Along the way Juan talked about a number of interesting facts. We spotted a car with a large “L” on the back. This is a Driver’s Ed vehicle. Young people must take at least 30 weeks of lessons, pass a test and still drive with an “L” on their car for 2 years so people will know “they might do something wrong.”

There are about 900,000 residents of the islands and during the season about 9 million tourists come here for the warm weather and the beautiful beaches.

Mallorca “my YOR kuh” is the largest of the Balearic Islands. The archipelago consists of 5 main islands listed in order of size: Mallorca, Minorca, Ibiza, Formentera, and Cabrera. And is administered fro the capital as a self-governing Spanish province. Palma, where we docked, is the administrative center and its largest city with 450,000 residents.

Palma’s gothic Seo Cathedral is beautiful and huge. Begun in the 13^th century, it took 300 years to complete. It is the final resting place of Mallorcan kings and was partially designed by Gaudí.

Mallorca Pearls are known worldwide as almost perfect man-made pearls. We learned some interesting pearl facts- Pearls were a favored jewel of wealthy Romans. Wealthy women often wore their pearls to bed so they could be reminded of their wealth immediately on awakening. Cleopatra allegedly swallowed a pearl to prove her limitless extravagance. In the 13^th and 14^th centuries only nobles could wear pearls

As we drove he pointed out the many areas where the underbrush was brittle, dry and brown. He said brush fires were a big danger and people who three a cigarette out the window could lose 4 of their 12 drivers points plus pay a big fine. Talking on a cell phone also involves a big fine.

At the vineyard we tasted wine in the courtyard of a 750-year-old building that had once been home to the Bishop of Barcelona. A young brother and sister from the wine producing family talked about the property and the wine. We tasted four kinds of wine and all was great! Mallorcan wine is so popular they have no US distributors – it all sells right on the island. We had great olives and olive oil with some yummy bread.

Was a very hot trip but we had fun!

Barcelona, Spain- July 22

We sailed into Barcelona, one of the busiest ports in the Mediterranean, at about 2:00AM this morning. The captain promised he would dock us quietly so no one’s sleep would be disturbed. I guess he really does know what he is doing. Barcelona is the capital of the Spanish province Catalonia. Catalunya extends across the Spanish/French boarder and the Catalan people feel a strong sense of cultural unity. Their history, civilization, language and character have been distinct for almost 2,000 years.

There are lots of historical monuments in the Old Town but Barcelona is best known for the scores of buildings in example left by the artistic explosion of Modernism in the decades around 1900. Most notably is the work of Antonio Gaudí. He was a man well ahead of his time- even used recycled materials in his buildings. A hospital, a palace, entire neighborhoods and his masterpiece the landmark Catedral de la Sagrada Familia attest to his creativity. Gaudí didn’t intend the church to be a church but it became an obsession for him. He worked almost exclusively on the building for the last 8 years of his life until his death in 1926. The church looks like wet sand dripped into complicated patterns and is still not completed.

Barcelona’s whimsical, vibrant atmosphere makes it an inviting place for visitors and residents alike. The city architecture is unique to say the least. The people are very friendly. There are about 3 million people who call Barcelona home.

The port shuttle stayed busy all day taking people- both passengers and ship’s crew- back and forth to the city. We watched the shuttle and many, many taxis come and go.

A Day at Sea- July 21

Days at sea are so very restful and fun! We enjoyed sailing along as we read and chatted between our balconies. We did have our cabin steward, Rio, open the panels several weeks ago so we could move back and forth and visit freely. Makes it nice.

Today there was the tour of the galley...the kitchen.

It is always amazing to learn how much of various kinds of food get consumed during a

day or week. The galley

is always so gleaming and so well organized. I guess it couldn’t be any other way in order to serve the amount and variety of foods that are prepared and served. Vegetable carvings and ice sculptures were decorating different spots.

As cruisers on this “Collector Voyage” we were invited to a special Indonesian Buffet Lunch today. The food featured was tasty and spicy. The chicken satay, the spicy shrimp, the beef salad, the spicy sugar snap peas and the slices of mango were especially delicious…..for those of us who like spicy food…..for the others it was a bit much. The servers, all of whom are from various Indonesian islands, wore beautiful shirts featuring hand batik art that t

old various stories or contained Indonesian symbols. Was a really nice gesture by Holland

America to say they appreciated our traveling with them for the 2 cruises. Lunch even included complementary wine.

A center decoration between the many buffet tables was made of 3 Indonesian stick puppets like the kinds we bought when we were in Indonesian. Reminded us of that fun tour and of some puppet shows that we’ve created and watched. These puppets were a bit fancier dressed than the ones we bought from street venders but the faces looked exactly like the ones we bought.

It was another formal night so we were later than normal eating our dinner. Our pattern has become to meet about 7:00 in the Explorers Lounge and listen to the String Quartet and have a drink together. Bill has become the person putting our name in for a table. Sometimes we get seated right away and sometimes it is a long wait. They give out coupons if you have to wait for a reduced price on drinks. Last evening was the worse we have had. I think more people choose the dining room on the formal nights so the process is long. On this ship the upstairs has 2 seatings- 5:45 and 8:00 and the downstairs in open seating. They are trying to please all people and tonight didn’t work with our crowd because we had to wait so late, were led upstairs to a table and then had not so sharp service. BUT on the whole, Holland America does a great job with most everything.

Pat has had a really bad cold and Lucy and I have now acquired it. Both Pat and Lucy have been troopers going to everything even though they don’t feel 100% yet! Tomorrow is another day and maybe we’ll all be well!

Monaco- July 20

The Principality of Monaco is a fantasyland of perfectly groomed streets, lush gardens, chic shopping and beautiful 19^th century palaces. Fancy apartments and condos rise up the steep hillside. The palace and the cathedral dominate the skyline and the beautiful blue of the Mediterranean frames the whole scene.

Monaco owes its renowned principality to its Grand Casino. Source of countless legends, the Casino was instituted in 1878 by Charles III to save himself from bankruptcy. Due to the huge success of the Monte Carlo Casino, Charles was

then able to save himself, his principality and to abolish taxation for all the people.

The Grimaldi family turned the single square mile into a prized piece of real estate. A Genoese family, the Grimaldis rose to prominence in the 12^th century when the leading son so impressed local leadership, he was sent to represent the Maritime Republic in the courts of German Emperor Frederick II and Byzantine ruler, Manuel Commenus. His descendants aided Genoa by defending a stronghold on the Rock of Monaco and in 1297, François Grimaldi a small faction to settle in the fortress on the Rock to escape turmoil in Genoa. Monaco was often embroiled in war and there were frequent pirate attacks but the clever Grimaldis usually managed to play one side against the other for advantage. In the 17^th century, the French king granted Honoré Grimaldi II the title of “prince” in return for a pledge of French al

legiance. He transformed his castle into a palace. Priceless painting, tapestries and furniture are in the Palais Princier.

In 1956 the actress Grace Kelly married the prince and Monaco became even more famous in the US. There is a lovely portrait of Princess Grace and Prince Ranier with their children in the Palace. The royal couple is buried in the Monaco Cathedral and their son Albert II is now the ruler.

We saw more expensive yachts

of all sizes than you could believe existed. Some yachts were the size of small cruiseliners. We saw lots of sailing ships. For sure and certain this is the playground of the rich and famous.

Bill and Lucy explored the two towns of Nice and Eze on the French Riviera and Pat and Jerry took a tour of Monte Carlo. They learned how very expensive the real estate is in anyone of these communities. It is still curious to me that the Casino saved the principality from bankruptcy. There is a 10 Euro admission fee charged to go in and you have to be properly dressed to go in. So they did work out an arrangement for the citizens of Monaco to live, not pay taxes, and have tourists foot the bill.

The Port of Livorno and beyond-July 19

Etruscan tribes fanned out across the regions now known as Tuscany and Umbria as long ago as 750BC and probably earlier. They were the

first to establish permanent settlements. Neolithic remains give hints about their predecessors, but theirs were the first communities. The name Tuscany is a derivation of the tribal name.

Livorno- that means “Leghorn”- is the gateway to Tuscany. Even though the Romans established the port, it was not fully developed until Florence's Medici family

transformed it into a thriving harbor. WWII bombs destroyed most of the ancient city, but it has been rebuilt as the second largest Italian port and the gateway to Tuscany’s magnificent artistic and

architectural wealth. The need for defense is still fresh in the minds of many residents, and Livorno is an important NATO military base.

The port city of Livorno is a busy, commercial, industrial and tourist center. The car ferries came and went all day long. We even saw a ferry that carries only RV type vehicles. The ferry pulled in, quickly unloaded campers and trailers and just as quickly reloaded and was underway with travelers going the other direction. We also saw a ferry carrying 18-wheeler type commercial trucks.

We watched people hang out on a strange looking beach nestled beside the sea wall. There were also lots of tanned, bathing suited men and women under umbrellas along the sea wall. It looked to us like it was maybe a photo shoot of some sort. Many lovely sailboats and pleasure boats of all types sailed by as we watched.

Just a few miles away in Pisa, the elegant Leaning Tower tilts precariously as it has for centuries. Lucy tried hard to straighten the tower. The four travelers began to climb the stairs to the top of the tower. Bill and Jerry made it almost to the top.

The jewel in the Tuscan crown is Firenze (Florence) where the beautiful Duomo and Baptisty can be seen. The marvelous sculpture by Michelangelo of a young David maybe viewed in a museum. There are many copies of this statue around the city also.

Sitting on the balcony today we were reminded of several other experiences in this area when we traveled in 1963 and again in 2005. Florence has such a lure of travelers through the centuries.

Civitavecchai-July 18

As announced we docked back in Civitavecchai at about 6:00 AM. This is the mid-point for our cruise and the end for some other passengers. Staff and crew were quiet as the luggage was removed. It was very, very windy and the waves were breaking over the sea wall. From our balcony you could see the bunkering platform/barge and a small boat tied up to connect us to the fuel lines and refuel the Noordam. Sure glad we are not the only ones paying the fuel bill for this ship because it must

be beyond belief. The man watching over the process hopped on and off the fuel barge with great agility as water sloshed over the barge. Some of the time he was also smoking- and I thought that was a bit risky. Jim said they use practically pure crude oil so any fire issues were not likely.

Last evening we got a copy of the Cruise Log that let us know

we had traveled a total of 2388 nautical miles in mostly calm seas. A nautical mile is 1.15 of regular miles- just in case you wondered.

The staff and crew were busy cleaning cabins and the public areas. The fire doors were closed and there were wooden panels along the walls to protect the wall

covering from the luggage being transported each way. The whole cleaning and ship turn around process was handled with ease…..easy for me to say since I just watched and read.

About the time we were awakening a US Navy Destroyer was being nudged into port across the way. The decks were filled with white uniformed sailors standing at attention. Felt good to see Old Glory waving proudly.

The Crow’s Nest is the bar and also observation spot on Deck 10. The front

row seats are large

leather recliners that make for a great place to observe the port and the sea. It is also a wonderful place for a time

of reading that can easily turn into a nap.

Many people travel by car ferry judging by the traffic in and out of the port of many different ferry lines. Our favorite was the one named Moby and the ferry sported huge likenesses of many Looney Tunes characters- Tasmanian Devil, Bugs Bunny, Daffy Ducky,

Tweety Bird and others. Each ferry that sailed by us had lots of folks on the decks waving.

One of the coolest things for all of us was NOT to have to attend the boat drill. Since we had done it at the beginning of the first part of the cruise we were spared standing on the deck and watching the "how to put on a life jacket" demonstration- especially since all passengers are already wearing their life jackets. We sipped wine and laughed!

At the end of the evening the color in the sky behind a small island was so beautiful. What a wonderful world!

Messina, Sicily- July 17

Early in the morning we sailed into Messina, Sicily. We were just to be in port for 5 hours so the touring

people were off early to travel the curvy roads to see Mt. Etna and the remains of the major volcanic

eruptions. There are more than 250 vents and craters on the side of the mountain. In the winter this is a popular skiing spot.

Greek Mythology is peppered with many mentions of Messina. According to ancient tales, Scylla and Carybdis threatened valiant Oddysseus at the Strait of Messina- the narrow point of passage between the island of Sicily and the toe of the boot of Italy. Hercules swam across the almost 2 mile wide channel and Jason and his Argonauts visited while pursuing the elusive Golden Fleece. Even Romans, who were uneasy sailors, used the port as a tactical base and grain storehouse.

Greek explorers established a Messina settlement in the 8^th century BC atop the ruins of an earlier community. The first name of the port was Zancle (sickle) because of the natural shape of the harbor. It was later renamed after a Greek city that had been destroyed. The area, because of its strategic location was ruled by Greeks, Romans, French, Germans, and Saracens.

Rising above the roof lines in the port you can see the beautiful Cathedral Annunziata dei Catalani which dates back to the Norman period. The city is busy and features many high-rise apartments packed up the hill. The city has 250,000 citizens and lies on the tip of Sicily at the channel between Sicily and Italy. We sailed through a stretch of water as we came back into the main part of the Mediterranean that was really churned up and dangerous for swimming.

Our travelers returned a bit weary and we sailed once again through the Straits of Messina and then by the volcano Stromboli. The volcano was again spitting out clouds of smoke and rocks. Down one side a lava flow all the way down to the sea could be seen. The small town we saw before has 250 people living there. Occasionally you could hear and smell the activity of Stromboli. Still cannot imagine why anyone would want to do that.

We are all trying not to feel too smug about all those folks who are busying themselves with packing and we don’t have to……yet. In another 10 days we’ll be just like they are-getting ready to return home. BUT meanwhile we had a great dinner together!